St. Andrews is a place you have to experience a lot to understand its subtleties. Hitting 135-yard 3-woods into the wind, then 220-yard 9- irons down breeze takes some getting used to.
First impressions, usually under-whelming, will soon be forgotten amid the memories of playing a 100-yard putt across a vast double green or the 15-foot putt you holed for birdie on the last green in front of the inevitable group of spectators. If you’re really lucky, they may even applaud.
St. Andrews, venue for this year’s British Open July 20-23, has five 18-hole courses-the Old, the New, the Jubilee, the Eden and the Strathty-rum-and one basic nine-holer, the Balgove. A few miles outside of town are dozens of other great courses, some old, some new.
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The oldest, most famous course in the world
The Old Course, St. Andrews. [pound]80 (01334-475757).
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The home of the game draws golfers from all over the world. Golf has been played here since at least 1457. The course is unique. It is flat, almost completely treeless, and only two holes wide, with the front nine and back nine basically running side by side. Yet no two holes are even remotely alike. It’s the model for all true links and home to such confounding hazards as “Hell Bunker,” “The Principal’s Nose” and, of course, the Swilcan Burn.
The Old Course also boasts what is probably the most difficult par 4 in the world, the 17th, or “Road Hole.” Make par there and retire.
Given the course’s fame, acquiring a tee time can be an ordeal. But the St. Andrews Links Trust, which operates and maintains the links, allocates a number of tee times on the Old Course by daily ballot. To enter, you must contact the starter or phone 01334-466666 before 2 p.m. on the day before you wish to play. The results are then posted at the new Links clubhouse-a welcome addition to the previously spartan visitor amenities-and all around town. You can also check the Internet on www.linksnet.co.uk.
The town’s other courses
The New Course, St. Andrews. [pound]40 (01334-475757).
There are those who will tell you that the New-which is “new” only in relation to the Old, since it was built in 1895-is harder to score on than its more famous neighbor. And they’d be right.
A testing and classic links without the eccentricities of the Old, the New, originally laid out by Old Tom Morris, is well worth a visit-or two.
The Jubilee Course, St. Andrews. [pound]35 (01334-475757).
Opened in 1897, recently redesigned by Donald Steel. A tight, tough links. Take lots of balls if the wind blows (which it will).
The Eden Course ([pound]25), the Strathtyrum Course ([pound]17), the Balgove Course ([pound]7), St. Andrews. (01334-475757).
In decreasing order of desir-ability. Play them if you’re feeling weak, or can’t get a tee time elsewhere.
Worth a day trip
St. Andrews Duke’s Course, St. Andrews. [pound]50-[pound]55 (01334-474371).
Inland from St. Andrews with great views. Designed by five-time Open champion Peter Thomson; affiliated with the Old Course Hotel.
Crail Golfing Society, Crail. [pound]25-[pound]35 per round, or [pound]30-[pound]45 per day (01333-450686).
Twelve miles out of town in a charming fishing village. The classic Balcomie links is now joined by the longer, tougher Craighead Course, a 1998 Gil Hanse design. The 1786 club is the world’s seventh oldest.
Lundin Golf Club, Lundin Links. [pound]29-[pound]37 per round, or [pound]37 per day (01333-320202).
Open Championship qualifying course, 25 minutes southwest of St. Andrews.
Leven Links, Leven. [pound]22 per round, or [pound]32 per day (01333-428859).
Lundin’s neighbor. More linksy, but conditioning suffers.
Ladybank Golf Club, Ladybank. [pound]30 per round, [pound]40 per day (01337- 830814).
Treelined course, 15 minutes inland from St. Andrews.
Scotscraig Golf Club, Tayport. [pound]30-[pound]35 per round, or [pound]40-[pound]45 per day (01382-552515).
Another Open qualifying course, 15 minutes from town.
Two big heavyweights just outside Fife
Carnoustie Golf Links, Carnoustie. [pound]20-[pound]70 per round, day tickets available (01241-853789).
Three layouts here. Play the Championship Course and see if you can beat Jean Van de Velde’s 7 at the 18th in last year’s British Open.
The Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder. [pound]55-[pound]100 (01764-662231).
Author: JOHN Huggan